DO NOT GO TO ANY WADE RAULERSON DEALERSHIP

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Harlan Shiftlight

(loosely interpreted by me. . .for a real, helpful guide check out wizkid's Install University)

Harlan's the man, plain and simple.  The shiftlight is awesome, easy to install, and even easier to program.  There are three wires to deal with: power, ground, and tach.

1. Remove the A-pillar by unscrewing the two 7mm bolts that are covered by the T-top on the driver's side and pulling of the plastic molding.  Pull out the defroster grill and cut out the slots.  That shiftlight will sit in that hole (if that is where you want to install it).

2. Unscrew the two bolts holding in the driver side and passenger side panels under the dash.  This is where all the wires are hidden.

Now to connect the GREEN tach line:

3. Open the hood.  Go the PCM.  Remove it by unscrewing the bolt then pulling up and wiggling the whole thing out.  It took me a few minutes to get the PCM and the plastic casing out.

4. The two parts of the PCM have different color connectors.  Separate the two pieces.  Pay attention to which section is on top.  I think the on the '99s the blue is on top. 

5. For the '99s, the tach line is Pin #10 (white wire) on the red connector.  Use a wiretap to connect the tach line for the shiftlight with the car's tach line.

6. You're going to run that wire from the tachline through the rubber grommet in the firewall underneath the PCM.  We tied the wire to a wire clothes hanger and poked a hole through the grommet and pulled it through from inside the car.  Use Perma-Seal (or similar product) to seal up the hole.

7. We ran the wire under the glove box, behind the radio, under the steering wheel, and through the fuse box to the A-pillar.  The second picture shows all three wires routed by the fuse box.

8. Use posi-locks to connect the tach line, power, and ground wires to the wires coming out of the shiftlight.

Now to connect the RED power line:

9. Pull the cover off the fuse box.  Pull the radio fuse (blue, #15).  We chose this fuse because it has power when the car is on, and does not when the car is off (which is also what I wanted for the radar detector).

10. Strip the free end of the power line.  Wrap it around a metal leg of the fuse and plug the fuse back in.  You can see the fuse with the power line attached in Wayne's hand in this picture.

Now to connect the BLACK ground line:

11. We grounded the ground wire to one of the screws that holds the panel under the steering wheel.

12. Insert the shiftlight into the defroster hole in the A-pillar.  Replace the A-pillar.

13. Reattach the panels under the steering wheel and glove box.

14. Tuck all the wires away, nice and neat.

I programmed my shiftlight to go off at 5800rpm.  The tach is pretty slow in first gear, not too bad in second, and just about right in third, so don't get freaked out when the light goes off when your tach only reads 5500rpm--it's just GM engineering.

2. Mount the V1 unit above the rear view mirror (yes, it still picks up rear bogeys perfectly well), or wherever you want it.

3. Run the wire from the V1 down the A-Pillar and under the dash to the panel under the steering wheel.

4. Connect it to the brain unit (for hidden display) or to a power source for a regular hardwire.  For a power source:

Pull the cover off the fuse box.  Pull the radio fuse (blue, #15).  We chose this fuse because it has power when the car is on, and does not when the car is off.

Hidden Display

My hidden display is mounted inside the gauge cluster underneath the oil pressure and engine temperature gauges.  I bet you wish you were that cool.

1. Remove the plastic molding lining the curved part of the dash above the gauges.  Just pull hard from all sides until it pops off.

2. Unscrew the four screws holding in the plexiglass and linings for the gauges (hereby referred to as the plexiglass unit thing). 

3. Pull hard to undo the plastic clips and pull out the plexiglass unit thing.  The steering wheel has to be all the way down with someone holding it as far as it will go.

4. Slide in the hidden display with the cord attached.  We used 3M double-sided tape to attach it. 

5. Run the cord through the corner of the gauge cluster down to the panel below the steering wheel.

6. Replace the plexiglass unit thing.  The needles will jump around each time the ground is touched, so don't worry, it's normal.  Make sure that all the needles will fall back to a 'zero' setting when the plexiglass unit is in place and not get stuck under the plastic oulines.  We just manually pointed all the needles up, but the battery needle kept falling under the plastic outline.  We slid a wire clothes hanger under the plexiglass unit thing as we moved it into place to hold the battery needle up.  What a pita, but look how fast I was going!

7. Attach the cord from the display unit to the brain.

8. Give life to the brain!  We used a wiretap to tap into the power line for the Harlan shiftlight, but if you don't have one here's what you do:

Pull the cover off the fuse box.  Pull the radio fuse (blue, #15).  We chose this fuse because it has power when the car is on, and does not when the car is off.

9. Ground the brain to one of the screws used to hold up the panel under the steering wheel.

10. Tuck all the wires away, nice and neat.  (translation: just shove them inside that panel)

11. Reattach the panel.

coming soon . . . MORE PICS!!!!

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